FACTS & FIGURES
Population : 240,089
THE CITY
Port Blair, the capital of the 350
odd islands that comprise the Andaman and Nicobar group, has one major
landmark-the Cellular Jail. A pipal tree, just outside this seven-winged
national monument, can tell tales of the torture of India's freedom fighters
within its walls. In 1897, the British, who then ruled India, laid the
foundation stone of the building. It had 698 solitary cells to ensure that
there was no contact between prisoners. Only three of the seven octopus-like
wings remain and as you walk down their corridor, you can still hear the
echoes of patriots like Veer Savarker or the booming voice of jailor Berry
Bellowing.
Listen you Prisoners,
It is here we tame
lions,Remember! God does not come
Within three miles of Port Blair…
In the universe there is but one
God who lives in the heaven above
But in Port Blair, there are two. One
The God of Heaven and the other
the God of Earth.
Indeed the God of Earth is myself.
The records at the site museum and a 'death house' bring tears to
one's eyes. The islands were called 'Kalapani'-islands with 'black water',
water tinted with the blood of those who would have India free.
A
visit to the islands is an emotional one. As the sun rises from Bay of
Bengal, the ethereal beauty of unadulterated nature engulfs one. One can
spend hours just staring at the clear blue waters with not a sound to
disturb you, except the twittering of a song bird or the footsteps of a wild
cat or a deer.
The Andamans are a paradise for ecologists and
ornithologists with 242 species of birds, 46 species of mammals and 78
species of reptiles-some of them rare and almost extinct. These live in
dense rain forests surrounded by mangroves that seem to become part of the
sea. You do not have to go far out to see brilliant tropical flowers,
including the orchid, and an array of butterflies.
THE PAST
In 1789, Captain Archibald
Blair of the Bombay Marine (the East India Company's Navy), acting under
orders from the government of Bengal, established a penal colony on this
site, naming it Port Cornwallis in honor of his commander, Admiral Sir
William Cornwallis. In 1858, the first European settlement on the islands
was established near the site of the old penal colony, and was named Port
Blair in honor of Captain Blair. The islands are home for some of the oldest
tribal communities in the world. Six recognized tribes inhabit the several
islands. The Onges, who, in more than 30 years, have progressed much-from
living in the nude and visiting the civilized world to ask for chai and bidi
to wearing trousers and lungis and living in disciplined wooden huts built
for them in Dugong Creek. They have even learnt to 'perform' a tribal dance
on request.
In the late sixties, the first few 'Jarawas' strayed
into Port Blair like creatures from another world. They were sent back laden
with gifts of food, clothing and colorful trinkets. Nothing more was heard
of them and it was believed that the others had killed the five who had
ventured into 'hostile' territory. They are still unfriendly. The Sentinels
from North Sentinel Island are downright hostile. The Nicobarese and the
Shompens are the most 'modern' of these primitive islanders. The others
still prefer life in the raw.
IN AND AROUND
The Cellular Jail
To pay homage to the martyrs,
one can visit the Cellular Jail and museum. A close look at the Death House
and the instruments of torture brings to mind India's freedom struggle and
the contribution of those who gave their life for the country.
The
Beaches
One can go for swimming at Corbyn's Cove, Jolly Buoy, or
one of other safe beaches. One can also swim, snorkel and visit the
underwater world as long as one wants. But first, it is necessary to check
on undercurrents and tide timings beforehand.
Ross Island
Ross Island was once an exclusive preserve of the British who ruled from
there for over 50 years. Now, as one walks through the ruins of bungalows,
churches, ballrooms, bakeries, clubs and dungeons, one can almost hear the
mingling of church bells and dance music and inhale the aroma of freshly
baked bread and cakes. Once a visitor stumbled and fell into what he
discovered, wire tennis courts attached to the Government House or the home
of the Chief Commissioner. Although haunted by ghosts from the past, Ross
Island is still peopled-with herds of deer and majestic peacocks that fear
no captivity.
Walking thorough the ruins of British architecture is a
good experience. The buildings could be identified as most of the buildings
are labeled now. They relive the glory of early 20th-century colonial life.
One can swim or make friends with the deer. The island is 200 acres and a
ferry from Phoenix Bay gets one there in a few minutes. Early morning, Ross
is a bird-watcher's paradise.
Viper Island
The Viper
Island contains the dungeons and a natural 'amphitheatre'. Captivities and
convicts once landed at Viper Island near the mouth of Port Blair Harbor.
Another picnic spot, it still has ruins of gallows as reminders of a grim
past.
Havelock Island
A visit to the Havelock Island is a
memorable experience. It is unspoilt and beautiful. If one is lucky enough
to get a permit, a visit to the home of the Onges in Dugong Creek is
necessary. Staying overnight at Havelock will take one back a hundred years
to camp life and pristine beauty.
Museum and Zoo
The
other places that deserve to visit are the Anthropological Museum, Marine
Museum, and the Mini Zoo. One could see a panorama of the life of the
Paleolithic islanders, a display of marine life with sea crocodiles,
dolphins, barracuda, and pearl oysters.
Harbor Cruises
The
trip to Port Blair could be rounded up with a harbor cruise that will take
one round the South Andaman Island and will give a bird's eye view of
mangroves, rain forests and other delights of this living museum. With luck
on one's side, dancing dolphins will guide the ferry ride to these islands.
Whether discovered through diving or just be sitting in a glass-bottomed
boat, the
treasures of these coral islands are unforgettable. As the
underwater world comes alive, one forgets that there is a less perfect world
outside, so engrossing are the vast expanses of colorful corals, fish and
vegetation. A peek into this magic land leaves one in a daze for the rest of
the day! One should explore it as often as he can for he will dream of it
ever after.
Volcanoes
The Andamans even have their very
own dormant volcano and those who have the courage and stamina to climb to
tits mouth on Barren Island never forget the sight of the lava inside or the
hard lava-like rocks that make the climb a near impossibility.
PICNICS AND ADVENTURES
One of the favorite
pastimes of tourists in the Andamans is picnicking-at Mount Harriet, once
the summer resort of British Chief Commissioners; or Chiriya Tapu with a
beach littered with driftwood in amazing shapes and sizes; or at Ross, a
small island girdled by tiny coves and beaches and just a stone's throw away
from the capital.
Islands like Jolly Buoy, Cinque, and Redskin have
clear waters that are considered among the best snorkeling spots in the
world.
But nothing that really matters has changed in these 'fantasy'
islands-the old-world charm remains, and adds to the attractions of coral
reefs, unspoilt beaches, ruins of monuments and rare flora and fauna. If one
dreams of a holiday amidst nature in its original glory, and if one loves
the soothing waves of the sea, the Andamans are for him. Nevertheless, those
in search of the bright lights will find the islands still 'backward' and
underdeveloped.
LOCAL DELICACIES
Every evening in Port Blair should be spent tasting its seafood-lobsters,
shrimps, and a variety of fish. One should drink dhap or fresh coconut water
and try tropical fruit, papayas, pineapples, sapota, and a variety of
bananas.
GETTING THERE
A daily
flight connects Port Blair to the rest of the world and the islanders are
getting used to sharing their rations with tourists-both Indian and foreign.
Few major hotels and other smaller ones vie with guesthouses and lodges for
clients; and helicopters or small boats can be used for island hopping. Now
the Andamans have new-look co-operative stores and facilities for water
sports. One may even come across tribal folks in 'formal' wear. Indian
Airlines connects Port Blair with Madras, Delhi, Bhubaneswar, and Calcutta.
By sea, Andaman is connected to Calcutta, Madras, and Vishakhapatnam. The
crossing takes two to three days. Tourists are advised to enquire about
schedule timings beforehand. Ferries operate between Port Blair and other
islands in the Andaman and Nicobar groups.
Entry
Formalities: Foreigners require a permit to stay in the Island which can
now easily be obtained on arrival at Port Blair (either by Sea or Air) from
immigration authorities for 30 days.
Festivals: The
festivals of Indian Classical dance, vocal music & ballet with leading
cultural troups and artistes of national & international fame are
invited to display there talent. |
